Wednesday, October 14, 2015

Sloper Attempts and Making Base Patterns

I like mass production, I like feeling like I'm being efficient with my efforts. Thus the idea of a sloper really appealed to me. That is, I knew if I could get a base pattern that always fit me, I could just readjust it for different styles. Which is so much better than, every time I like a new pattern, having to cut it out (I hate the tissue paper), make something, see that it doesn't fit, figure out how to make it fit, and recopy the pattern....and then repeat the whole process for every new dress I want to make.

However, I've spent so many hours researching different sloper strategies, etc, to save time (theoretically), I have read through 7 different sloper instructions, and made slopers from 3 of them, and always, for one reason or another, getting frustrated, and giving up. (Darts are the worst. The frustration usually comes from weird bubbly or too sharp darts, I have yet to master darts)

OK SO BEST DRAFTING LINK!!!  I like it, because instead of tracing random lines with a magical type of step by step instructions, the first thing you do is make a grid from the measurements, so its much faster than random steps, because you can actually see what you are doing.
(for some reason the link sometimes redirects to the website's homepage. Go to and go to "Free Articles-->Beginner Articles -->Easy Pattern Drafting)
However, its WITHOUT SEAM ALLOWANCES, so you just trace around 3/8" at end for seam allowances, and figure out ease yourself.

The other link I like is this one because its just so incredibly intuitive (not the magical instructions kind)

Now I know how to do a FBA reliably on princess seams which really helps with nursing figures changing and all.

What base patterns I would like to have...
  1. -Basic Armhole Princess Seamed (for Hobbit/Dirndl bodices, so tight at the waist)
  2. -Basic Shoulder Princess Seamed (for Eowyn styles---or also for Hobbit Bodice?)
  3. -Basic Empire Princess Seamed (for Arwen styles. Leaning toward Armhole Princess, because want wide unbroken necks, may be finicky with shoulder princess?)
Best dart tutorial ever.

I've had SO. MUCH. TROUBLE. with darts. I need to follow this tutorial on curving the darts, if the garment is at all tight (thus, for loosely fitted shirtwaist stuff, probably not as necessary).
  1. -Basic 2 darted to natural waist, more fitted (sloper, basically)
  2. -Basic 2 darted empire, more fitted (empire line sloper)
  3. -Basic 2 darted to natural waist, with room. (for Shirtwaist dresses, blouses, etc)

More drafting links

A speed video of someone drafting a sloper using these instructions (alas, they draft the front and the back separately, which I find frustrating because I have to constantly measure things in relation to the "side seams" which I don't really trust myself to do properly, unless someone is wearing a cami with permanent marker on it, traced via plumb lines...)
A useful article...
A nice article on FBA adjustments, but now you have to pay for it?

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